Santorini may be known for being a scene stealer. But Anafi is no doubt a heart stealer. This island is a brutal remix of wild and understated elegance. I am torn in between keeping the island's best kept secrets to myself and sharing it with the world about this least visited of the Cycladic islands. For we felt the dire need to want to preserve this intimate yet bold and barren island so that it will remain unspoilt for centuries and decades ahead. But as the saying goes, “all good things must share” so here you go, you lucky person you! (Oh, and you can thank us later ;)
Anafi ( Greek: Ανάφη) is a Greek island community in the Cyclades. Legend has it that this island emerged from under the Aegean sea by the command of the God Apollo to cushion the fall of the Agronauts during a fierce storm. Thus the name of the island- Anafi, which means “an island that appeared”. A 2 hour-ride ferry ride headed east from θίρα (Santorini) will get you to this unspoiled barren wild island. Anafi is also known as the most desolate of the Cyclades islands and the southernmost. Take a glimpse into Anafi’s past from the thick layer of pumice that covers the island today, that of which resulted from the volcanic eruption in Santorini in the past . With only 270 inhabitants on this 40.370 square kilometres island, this island undoubtedly strikes off as an intimate bolthole regardless the time of the year.
Our ferry seemed to be gliding across the endless Aegean sea since we departed from Santorini. By now the sun has made its exit. The sea, a dark abyss witnessed by the countless glittering stars in the night sky, remained calm. As we neared Anafi, the only indication of civilisation was that of the little light spared at the port (λιμάνι) , Agios Nikolaos and the glimmer of lights at one of the peaks of the hills. It is where the only village and capital of Anafi known as Chora (χώρα) stands. I smiled to myself looking at the lights at the peak. It was as though someone had sprinkled stardusts on it. And the lights seem to be skipping and moving playfully while everything else surrendered into the darkness. There was definitely a hint of mystique, waiting to be unravelled in the presence of the morning sun.
We were awoken by the lapping sound of the waves against the rocks and the distant mild humming of the ship's generator
(since our accommodation was 100 metres from the port). We jumped out of bed to catch a sneak peak of Anafi coming to life. Next to the port, fishing boats were swaying gently next to the small wooden jetty. The port extended to a small cliff-sheltered sandy beach where a family was enjoying the sun and the sea. "όχι!όχι!" cried a boy as he ran away from his father, giggling, avoiding his embrace for he knew their fate should the father managed to grab hold of him. And true enough, his father did catch hold of him, heaved him over his broad shoulder, and dived off from the nearby wooden jetty into the cold waters. The splashing sound of the water was drowned by their laughter. The whole setting was simply refreshing to the eyes and mind. It was like admiring a painting, only in this case, the bright blue window frame of our tavern constitutes the frame of the live canvas.
We waited at the bus stop for the bus up the village. It was just us. Once at the village, we rented a motorbike and I insisted that we each get a helmet. And it turned out, we were the only ones riding around with our helmets. Those seeing us with our helmets might have been wondering if we were riding a Ducati bike that was going at 1099 cc or something. We decided to blend in better so, we returned the helmets a few hours later. (Note : I am not saying you should not consider safety, you should by all means get a helmet, but because we were riding really slowly that if you strolled beside us, you could easily catch up, or maybe be ahead of us and on top of that, the weather was, let’s just say, not the best weather to have your head trapped in a sponged cocoon.)
Riding along Anafi is so deeply therapeutic as the stunning view of the Cycladic landscape and the steep hills that seemed to be climbing into the bright blue sky would never for a second let your natural lens escape it. The highest point in Anafi is Mountain Vigla standing at 583 metres. As you cruise along the hills, you will constantly feel being at the edge. You will chance upon exterior massive brick-ovens at random sites, giving you a sneak peek of their lifestyle and history. Rare flora and fauna decorate the golden hillsides. These are plants with very fine leaves and branches (like brown, red and green needles), its features obviously adapted to the peculiar climate of Anafi. Though it is said that Anafi generally means “the island that appeared”, G believes that the name of the island also has something to do with the especially hot climate. The word Anavo (αναβώ) in Greek means “to light up or to fire”. So the name Anafi could also be closely linked to the the meaning of the said word. In summer, the temperature can go as high as 35 degrees celcius but given its beautiful beaches, all is forgiven. You can trust us on that.
For things to do in Anafi, click here.
