1. Explore the Chora, the Heart of Anafi
There is a beautiful pathway from the port, up to the one and only village and capital in Anafi. At night, you have dimly lit lights lighting the path, accentuating the mood. In this village, the only mode of getting around is on foot. So we let ourselves get lost in the labyrinth of the village. The village is built on the slopes of the mountainside. The element of the Cycladic architecture, typical of the Cycladic islands, eminent in the preserved architecture of the single-room homes embedded into the steep hill, whitewashed and minimal. Churches, new and old are scattered everywhere, some with byzantine icons. You will never know where each cobbled narrow pathway leads you to. It is excitingly haphazard. We were so excited by the whole layout that we were behaving like laboratory rats placed in a maze after being injected with sugar. Getting excited and thrilled by every treasure we chanced upon. At one point, we ended right at the front doorstep of a house. It was a house with a dead end. The owner of the house, not bothered by the fact that we had actually unintentionally intruded into her space, stepped out and gently told us how we should continue our path. I was expecting the contrary reaction like how it would in some parts of the world; an angry person, chasing us- the 1098th visitor in the year to have ended up on her doorstep- away with a broom in her hands. But no, not this one. The only thing in her hands was a plate of fruits, typical of the island, peeled and fresh from the refrigerator. It was sweet and juicy. To think that she had our interest at heart as soon as she saw us at her doorstep and had grabbed for the fruits before she stepped out, speaks volume of the unaffected warmth and generosity of the Greeks. Who thinks like that? And for complete strangers. The juice from the fruit helped take our mind off the heat for a while. At that point, all I wanted to do was hug her and not let go.
With our body now recharged, we continued leaping across the cobbled pathways in the attempt to race to the top of the village where the ruins of the Venetian castle remains. As soon as we got there, our eyes were transfixed on what was ahead of us. We were 327 metres above sea level. The view created a stir in our hearts and it literally took our breath away. The village was built amphitheatrically above the port, and the gradient of the colour of the blue sea gave the island a certain set of definitive contrast. The villagers are blessed with the stunning vistas. I cannot imagine waking up to the view every single day and not feeling contented with life. I turned to look at G, he looked at me and smiled. I smiled back. It was an exchange of an unspoken agreement that we would return and grow old together, on this very island.
2. Take A dig into the past at the Archaeological Sites
Archaeological sites are never to be missed. In Anafi, some of these are the ruins of the city wall at Kastelli and the sculptured sarcophagus next to the chapel of piragia Dokari. Remnants of the antiquities dating back from the Roman period can be found scattered on the island as well. Sculptures and statues had been collected and displayed in a small space that serves as a museum in Chora. It is situated next to the citizen's service centre. The caretaker in the museum greeted us with the sincerest welcome you could ever receive from any other. You could tell from his eagerness that he bears so much pride of the history of Anafi. I was honestly expecting probably a two-storey high building housing the antiquities instead of a fifteen square metre space. Well, the rest of what they had found was apparently stolen by the rest of the world, held captive in their museums. That explains why.
3. Admire the Stone-built Churches that dot Anafi's inviting landscape
On the eastern end of the island, a monolithic peak, Mount Kalamos, 420 metres high and one of the highest in the Mediterranean stands like a massive cone appearing from the sea. Perched on the peak is the monastery Panagia Kalamiotissa (named after the mountain it is on) known by the locals as the“upper monastery”, visible from every nook and cranny of the island. The small single-domed church offers you the most epic view of the Aegean sea and of its sunrise. Renowned as the fiercest point of the world, this where you get to witness the blazing sun rise from beneath your feet. A sight to behold and savour.
To get there, hikers and pilgrims take the ancient paved “sacred road” connecting the ‘lower monastery” to the upper one. The lower monastery; a byzantine church is on Zoodochos Pigi, built in the 17th Century on the ruins of the temple of Apollo Aiglitis. This is where you will see the remnants of the temple that was once dedicated to God Apollo, situated just two hours on foot from the Chora. When we reached Zoodochos Pigi, we learnt that the monastery site is a well preserved, archaeological site as evident by the high sections of the walls surrounding it. The door to the monastery was closed, so we ventured the surrounding area. We walked a bit of distance towards the edge and the view is just indescribable. After pampering ourselves with the unparalleled view of the landscape, we circled the walls of the monastery and surprisingly the door to the courtyard where the monastery is was now open. We tip-toed inside. Then a nun appeared from one of the side buildings, and she offered us an entry into the small church. After she let us in, she left , only to return with a bowl of grapes for our consumption. Every inch of the interior was strikingly and majestically adorned with ceramic paintings of the saints. As she spoke to G about the monastery and its history, I wandered about the small space, within the earshot of their conversation. After talking to G, the nun passed by me and she placed her hands on my arm and gave it an assuring stroke. She then nodded and smiled. It was as though she could sense my worries of the world and was assuring me that it was all going to be alright. I have never felt my mind and soul so soothed.I know you might think I am exaggerating this, but her face exudes such peace that it penetrates your bones.
We excused ourselves after having fully admired the sacredness and beauty of the church. As we were walking along the courtyard to the exit, the nun came running to us, the bowl of green grapes in her hands, insisting that we take all the grapes with us. We were hesitant, not because we did not want them, but because we did not want to rob others of their chance to have their palate pampered by the sweetness of the grapes. But she insisted. She gingerly took the cap that was in my hands, and poured all the grapes into it. Again, the feeling of just wanting to hug that someone and not let go resurfaced.
As we walked out, G shared their conversation with me. (I really need to learn Greek, which I am learning bit by bit by the way, because poor G has to do the subtitles for every conversation for me and I know it can be exhausting) So, G told me she shared about the most important day of celebration, which was on the 7th-8th September, which marks the birth of the saint Virgin. Pilgrims will hike to the upper monastery for the celebration, carrying the iconic Virgin symbol and stay the night for the all-night ceremony held there and they would leave the next day. She told us it takes 45 minutes to get to the upper monastery. We figured it would be so effortless for her since she would have done it half of her life. For the rest of us, it would take approximately twice the time and effort, let’s say, 90 minutes. However on normal days, day in and day out, there are quite a number who would hike up the hill in the evening to get to the monastery. Once at the monastery, they watch the sunset and let their eyes feast on the best view of the Aegean sea and then stay the night to embrace the sunrise the next morning. Just make sure you have enough provisions, especially water before you embark on your hike.
4. Adopt the "Everything Tastes Good" Food Mantra
A bite into any dish in Anafi will send you reeling into food orgasm, food convulsions and all the reactions your body is capable of to illustrate the extreme pleasure it has been bestowed with. Click here for our food experience (Warning, reader's discretion is advised : This is not for those with big stomach and big appetite but with a weak heart as this might lead to extreme craving that might cause you to be impulsive and buy a ticket to Greece in the next hour, leaving your responsibilities behind.)
5. Be at one with the sea, the sand and the sun
I told G that him bringing me to all the intimate and strikingly beautiful beaches in Anafi has turned me into one spoilt woman. No kidding. My expectation on how a beach should be, has gotten me raised its bar so high. Well, can you blame me when you have sand that feels like velvet underneath your feet, waters so crystal clear that you feel so at ease and at the same time, being privileged to witness the fishes swimming around you. Swimming in the beaches as such in Anafi brings swimming to a whole new level. There are no two same kind of beaches in Anafi. Each has its own character. It is best to explore every accessible beaches.
5. Be a little more adventurous and take the off-beaten track to Elevation
As we were riding down the hill after a satisfying dinner at the Chora, and at one point, G decided to make a turn in the opposite direction to the route of our accommodation at the port. My eyelids were heavy by then and my muscles were beginning to surrender to extreme relaxation from soaking in the sea and sun tanning all day, and not forgetting the heavy meal we just had. I swear, I was close to falling off the bike. I was too weak to even lift my mouth muscle in protest of having to detour because all I wanted right now was the bed. The stars and the beam from the bike was our only source of light. But as soon as we reached the dead end of the path, my curious eyelid managed to lift itself a bit and catch a glimpse of what was ahead. My hairs instantaneously stood on its end and all my senses were awoken. I shuddered, in a good kind of way. We were at a helipad on one of the hills. I jumped off the bike; my body betraying its once dire need for relaxation. I took my position right in the middle of the helipad. Though the surrounding was dark, you could vividly draw the landscape and setting in your mind through the gentle howling of the wind as it sings the messages of the hills surrounding you and what the night stars want you to know. I closed my eyes and stood there, feeling the wind serenading my body and soul. I felt as majestic, elevated and invincible as the nature surrounding me. For the first time in my life, I felt at one with nature and the universe. And I am sure, so did G.
